Planning to do my first 6000er - UT Kangri (6070m). What do you think?

[Madhav]

Hi,

My question pertains to a trek that IH doesn't offer (yet). I wanted to take forward my trekking journey to amateur technical mountaineering. I was planning to do UT Kangri in October. This peak is relatively newly discovered. It was explored first by by the local mountaineers of Ladakh Mountain Guides Association (LMGA) in 2019 and is accessible for amateur mountaineers.

Has anyone done that? Or do you know someone who did it? Or, are you interested in doing something like this? Would love your thoughts

[Shilpin]

Hi Madhav,

We attempted it last year with a trek guide who is part of LMGA & also who was part of the team who opened it up for amateurs like us.

The trek in itself isn't very challenging however since its in Leh UT,there are a few nuances you need to understand before you decide to attempt it:

A) Most of us fly to Leh & then attempt a trek from there, since Leh is already at 14000 ft its difficult to acclimatise.We gave ourselves 3 days in Leh & since we exhibited no symptoms we began the trek unfortunately AMS hit us on the Summit day & we had to return back half way.The best way to ensure success is to spend 2 weeks in Leh doing progressively intense cardio to ensure your body is ready for the challenge.

B) The group we were part of had only 3 members & 3 support staff so you won't get that group warmth you get in other IH treks.

C) I would always pick a trek which has views to reward the effort we invest in it,I don't think UT Peak has it.

D) The topography,water availability & wind direction on the trek is such you will reach base camp in 2 days,rest & attempt summit the next day & Summit day is a 12 hour marathon with more than 3000 ft elevation gain,its as much a mental game as a physical challenge & I didn't realise it untill I was there.

E) The weather & temperature conditions on summit day is very different from what you would have ever experienced if this is your first attempt at 6000 m + peak. This also means you need high altitude trek gear which is more capable as well as complicated then gutters & crampons you would have used with IH. Takes some skill to get used to.

This is my personal opinion,I was there in August 20.My Trek guide is an amazing Ladakhi & I can get you in touch with him if you require.

All the best!!

 

[Madhav]

On 9/29/2022 at 8:23 PM, Shilpin said:

My Trek guide is an amazing Ladakhi & I can get you in touch with him if you require.

I would really appreciate if you could do that please!

I really really appreciate your response! Thank you for sharing your experience, I couldn't find much information online on UT Kangri! This really helps a lot! Thank you so so much!